Frequently Asked Questions

The speed the sauna heats up depends on the ambient temperature inside the sauna. If it is a cold day and inside of the sauna is at 20F, it will take longer to heat up than if it's a hot day and the inside of the sauna is already at 80F.

In general, for electric heaters the sauna will heat up to 160F in ~30 mins and to 190F in <1 hour.

For best performance, we recommend placing the thermometer ~12" to the right or left of the heater and ~20" below the ceiling.

Heat will rise to the top of the sauna, so the top of the sauna will be hotter than the bottom. To run your sauna at a higher temperature, place the thermometer lower. If you plan on lowering your thermometer, we recommended lowering by ~3" inches at a time. After lowering the thermometer, use the sauna a few times to test the sauna's maximum temperature at this height. Continue lowering until you reach your desired temperature.

Customers running the sauna at high temperatures do so at their own risk. Consult with a doctor before using your sauna.

The electricity costs associated with running the sauna heater are negligible for most customers.

Unlike a hot tub or other household appliance which is on all the time, the heater only draws power when you are using it. This means its overall power usage will be much lower than a refrigerator which runs all the time.

Further, the heater runs on high voltage electricity, which is more efficient than household 110V.

Wash the layer of rock dust off of the sauna rocks before using them. If the rocks are not cleaned there may be smoke coming from the heater during the first use as a result of the dust / other particles being burned. When your sauna is set up and working you should "break-in" the sauna before using it for the first time. Turn it on to its highest setting and keep it like that for about 1 hour. This is recommended to burn off any oils and impurities from manufacturing, and it also "cures" the woodwork. After about 3/4 of an hour, slowly pour about 1 liter of cold water onto the rocks. It should all turn to steam and not come out of the bottom of the heater. If it does not, you’re pouring too fast.

Yes! The heaters are designed to have water poured on them. The water will evaporate creating a steam-filled environment which some users prefer over the dry sauna feel.

Only pour so much water as can easily evaporate on the rocks. The rule of thumb is "don't overdo it". Go slow and relax.

Generally, drainage is not a concern, provided the amount of water used on the rocks is appropriate. Make sure you aren't using so much water on the rocks that water begins to pool on the floor below the heater. Only pour so much water as can easily evaporate on the rocks.

To the extent water does need to drain out of the sauna the sauna's bottom stave has a drain hole cut in it. You can cut additional drain holes if you need faster drainage or the position of the drain hole doesn't meet your needs.

A sauna needs to have proper ventilation to distribute the heat evenly. Ventilation facilitates the flow of fresh air into the sauna and helps the movement of air within the sauna. Our saunas come with multiple vents. Our standard vent size is 1.5" in diameter.

Air Intake

Your intake vent is at the back of the sauna near the heater. This is important because your heater will naturally be pushing the hot air up, so placing the vent near it creates a natural pull of fresh air from the outside. It can also be advantageous if you’re using an electric heater, as your vent will help it run cooler and can prevent it from shutting off prematurely because the heat throughout your unit will be more evenly dispersed.

Air Outflow

Your outflow vent is located on the wall opposite your intake vent, around about six inches from the ceiling. This helps create a natural flow of air as the unit warms up. The air in your unit will change out roughly four to six times per hour. Remember, saunas aren’t supposed to be airtight. Minor gaps in the staves will naturally allow the unit to have fresh airflow.

Yes! Some of our customers who enjoy greater airflow choose to additional vents for comfort. This can be done by drilling small holes on a DIY basis. Another method to avoid drilling is to leave small gaps in construction, such as at the bottom of the door or between specific slats. Remember, saunas aren’t supposed to be airtight. Minor gaps in the staves will naturally allow the unit to have fresh airflow.